Back-to-School Acne Care: An Over-the-Counter Guide for Clearer Days Ahead

A new school year brings days full of activity: early mornings, jetting from school to practice, nights of homework. Unfortunately, all of this action makes our skin want to get active, too!  Stress, hormones, sweat, helmets, makeup, and changes in sleep and diet can all contribute to acne flares. The new school year is the perfect time to get in the habit of a new skin care routine.

The great news is there are many effective acne treatments easily available over the counter. Here’s a guide to what to look for before you head to the store. 

Adapalene 0.1% Gel: The Preventive Powerhouse for Acne Care

Adapalene is a topical retinoid that helps keep pores from clogging so it is preventative for all types of acne breakouts as they all originate from a “micro” clogged pore. It is especially helpful for treating blackheads and whiteheads and for evening out skin tone when there is lingering pigmentation.

This ingredient gives the best results when you apply a pea-sized amount in a thin layer to the entire acne-prone area—not just individual blemishes. Eventually it can be used nightly, but you can avoid a period of purging (temporary increased number of breakouts) and reduce dryness and irritation if you begin using only three nights a week and increase as tolerated. 

Dryness, mild stinging, and peeling are common early on. Use a gentle moisturizer twice a day and sunscreen of at least SPF 30 every morning. 

Products to try: 

• Neutrogena Adapalene 0.1% Gel Acne Treatment

• LaRoche Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Topical Retinoid Acne Treatment

• Differin Adapalene 0.1% gel 

• Derm Office version: A stronger version of Adapalene in a 0.3% gel concentration is available by prescription (0.1% was originally rx only as well but became available over the counter in 2016)

  
  

Salicylic Acid: A Pore-Clearing Acne Care Option

Salicylic acid is an exfoliating beta-hydroxy acid, so it helps loosen dead skin cells and clear clogged pores. It can be useful for blackheads, whiteheads, and oily skin. 

It is available in cleansers, pads, toners, and leave-on treatments. A cleanser is a great foundational element in an acne routine, while a leave-on product can be helpful in a targeted spot treatment.

Because too much exfoliation can irritate the skin, avoid piling on multiple scrubs, acids, or harsh acne products at once.

Products to try:

• Neutrogena Evenly Clear Acne Cleanser 

• CeraVa Acne Control Cleanser

• LaRoche Posay: Effaclar Medicated Gel Cleanser, Effaclar A.Z. Salicylic Acid Acne Medication, and Effaclar Duo+M Multi Target Acne Treatment

• Derm Office version: We often upgrade from salicylic acid to other exfoliating ingredients or perform extraction procedures. It is often kept on board in an over the counter cleanser while increasing the strength of other elements of the routine

  
  

Benzoyl Peroxide: Best for Red, Inflamed Pimples

Benzoyl peroxide reduces acne-causing bacteria and inflammation. It is a reliable choice for red, tender pimples and can be used as a wash or leave-on gel. Just like salicylic acid above, a cleanser is a great foundational element in an acne routine, while a leave-on product can be helpful in a targeted spot treatment.

Lower strengths, such as 2.5% to 5%, are often effective with less irritation, but stronger concentrations of up to 10% are available. Cleansers are generally well tolerated with once to twice daily use, but frequency can be reduced if your skin becomes dry or irritated.

***One important school-day warning: benzoyl peroxide can bleach***

This can happen with towels, pillowcases, clothing, and hair. I recommend going all white for the bathroom face and hand towels as well as bedroom pillowcase. If applying to the torso, let a leave on product dry completely before getting dressed.

Products to try First:

• Panoxyl 10% Acne foaming wash 

• Differin Acne Spot Treatment, 10% Benzoyl Peroxide

• LaRoche Posay Effaclar Duo Dual Action Acne Cleanser 

• CeraVe Acne Foaming Cream Cleanser (4%) and Wash (10%)

• Derm Office version: Benzoyl peroxide is frequently formulated with other active ingredients in combination prescription therapies (ex: Cabtreo, EpiDuo Forte)

  
  

Azelaic Acid: A Gentle Multitasker

Azelaic acid can help with all types of acne breakouts, but is especially good for the dark marks that may remain after a blemish heals. It is gentle and can be a helpful option for sensitive or darker skin tones that are more prone to post-acne discoloration.

Use it once or twice daily in a leave-on formulation applied after cleansing to the entire treatment area in a thin layer.

Products to try:

• Naturium’s Azelaic Acid Emulsion 10% 

• The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension

• Tirtir Azelaic Acid Serum 12%

• Paula’s Choice Azelaic Acid 10% Booster

• Derm Office version: Foam, gel, and cream formulation in 15% and 20% concentrations are available by prescription

  
  

Sulfur: A Spot-Treatment Classic

Sulfur helps kill acne-associated bacteria and reduce inflammation, redness, and pain. Its distinctive smell and potential for dryness make it less appealing for some, so the formulation really matters for ease of use. It is commonly found in masks, cleansers, and spot treatments.

Products to try:

• The Ordinary Sulfur 10% Powder to Cream Concentrate

• Neutrogena Stubborn Acne Spot Drying Acne Treatment

• DERMAdoctor Ain’t Misbehavin’ 10% Sulfur Acne Mask

• Derm Office version: Numerous concentrations of combination cleansers with Sulfur with Sodium Sulacetamide 

  
  

A Simple Back-to-School Routine

Morning: Salicylic Acid cleanser, Benzoyl Peroxide spot-treatment topical cream, moisturizer, and broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher. 

Evening: Gentle cleanser, Adapalene 0.1% gel, then moisturizer

Clearer skin does not require a complicated routine. Keep it gentle, stay consistent, and protect your skin from the sun. Remember most acne routines need 6 to 12 weeks to show their full benefit.

When to See a Dermatology Professional

Consider professional care if acne is painful, cystic, causing scars, affecting self-esteem, or not improving after about two months of consistent over-the-counter treatment. Additional topical strengths and ingredients, oral therapy, and procedures are available in an office setting.

We can help build a plan that fits your skin, schedule, and goals. Remember: acne is common at every age—and it is treatable! We’re here to help at Northeast Dermatology. Call 614-473-9519 to schedule an appointment.